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Hwaygo

In old machines, that 5volt level can get nickel & dimed away at numerous points along the chain of quarter century old connectors and components. Correct the biggest power hog and you can be back in business, but some additional replacements along the line might make the volt level more comfortable.


Yea I thought this was the case, but I wasn't sure how to articulate it.

Do you think its a good idea to replace that diode (D1)?

There's also a lot of tracer repairs on the board. I'm considering replacing the whole board. Any recommendations to where I should/could get one?
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[KSy3fj]
[updolaabc99]
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Hwaygo
http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/915/bally-williams-wpc-s-security-mpu.htm

Seems like a good price
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Hwaygo
Now that the catastrophic resetting issue is sorted (crossed fingers) its time to catalogue other issues with this game.

I'll try to list them in order of their impact to the game. In other words, how important it is to fix the issue (imo).

1. Left ramp right return wireform bend. *The wireform has a bend in it that sometimes causes the ball to get stuck.

20190507_222947.jpg

2. Two switch connectors need replacing on the MPU board. In my previous testing of various things I broke off a wire from two different connectors. I believe one is for the left ramp diverter switch (resulting in a lack of action with the right diverter button is pressed by the player. And the other wire seems to be the ball hold sensor for the main multiball. This causes the game to do funny things when a ball is in the physical lock position cos the game loses track of the ball.

I have no idea how to connect wires to these types of connectors. This is something I need to learn.
Image result for wire connectors

3. Ball sometimes fails to reach lock position behind the sanctom. I'm not exactly sure whats happening here, but when you hit the ball lock and the magnet sucks the ball through there seems to be some momentum loss and the ball falls back out of the center which can result in an unavoidable center drain.
I think this may be something to do with the one way gate behind the wall. It may simply need cleaning and lubrication.

4. Broken plastics with tape over them. The plastic next to the sanctum wall is broken and has tape over it. The tape is there because if the ball falls out of the battlefield at this angle it can get stuck in the cavity. Need a replacement plastic for this.
20190508_200031.jpg

5. Broken spring on playfield locking arm. You cant really see it here but the spring is no good. The arm keeps getting stuck which results in the playfield not locking when you lift it. This is a massive pain when trying to do work under the playfield.

20190508_203555.jpg

6. Lost of movement/play in the right ramp diverter. This is causing the ball to lose a lot of momentum when it goes up the ramp. I'm not sure how to go about fixing this.

7. Shooter is sometimes weak. The ball often doesn't make it up and over the shooter ramp. It probably needs rebuilding.

8. Speaker is unsecured.
20190508_203551.jpg

9. Flasher cover missing.
20190508_200134.jpg

10. Start button light needs replacing.
20190508_212310.jpg

11. Cigarette burn in DMD cover. I am considering simply cutting out the clear plastic of the speaker panel. I think I could replace this with a piece of perspex.


Thats all the main issues for now.
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Hwaygo
20190508_222357.jpg The wireform bend issue has been solved!

A friend was able to use a special tool to get it straight. You can see there is still a very slight bend but it is way better than it was and shouldnt be a problem now.
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Mar
Awesome! It sounds like a simple thing to solve - a bend in a wire form. But the truth is that those things are damn strong, so I can understand the need for a specific tool to straighten it.

I’m looking forward to seeing progress on the other issues. Keep us updated John!
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bakersnarkMDW
The shooter issue is likely just a loose or crooked bracket holding that solenoid, meaning the ball isn’t struck cleanly in the centre. Simply take off the metal apron by removing the screws going through the brackets that hook the playfield onto the front of the cabinet. You can see the 3 screws holding the shooter solenoid bracket - line the shooter up and then tighten the screws. 
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[image] 
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bakersnarkMDW
Mar wrote:
Awesome! It sounds like a simple thing to solve - a bend in a wire form. But the truth is that those things are damn strong, so I can understand the need for a specific tool to straighten it.
...


Makes you wonder how they get bent in the first place!
Random item from my Tabletop Games Collection
[image] 
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Mar


Makes you wonder how they get bent in the first place!


Fire - the answer for everything.
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bakersnarkMDW
Hwaygo wrote:

...

6. Lost of movement/play in the right ramp diverter. This is causing the ball to lose a lot of momentum when it goes up the ramp. I'm not sure how to go about fixing this.

...


Wracking my brain for details because it’s been a while since I looked at this and the manual doesn’t have a diagram of the important part, so qualify everything that follows with “near as I remember”.

Those diverters sit on a shaft (Ooo-err!) that goes down to a double coil assembly which moves them side to side. Somewhere along that shaft there is a larger diameter collar that connects the two parts. That collar has 2(?) holes drilled through it which have a threaded insert in them that can be loosened and tightened with a small Allen key. Adjust to correct angle and tighten.
Random item from my Tabletop Games Collection
[image] 
See it & the rest here:
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Hwaygo


Makes you wonder how they get bent in the first place!


It was really tight to remove and replace. I recken its the result of someone being too rough with it on removal.
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Hwaygo
The shooter issue is likely just a loose or crooked bracket holding that solenoid, meaning the ball isn’t struck cleanly in the centre. Simply take off the metal apron by removing the screws going through the brackets that hook the playfield onto the front of the cabinet. You can see the 3 screws holding the shooter solenoid bracket - line the shooter up and then tighten the screws. 


Sounds likely. I'll have a look at it.
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